Jemaa el-Fna

By day, a dusty expanse of orange juice carts and snake charmers performing for tour groups. By dusk, something else entirely — a thousand-year-old theatre reassembling itself nightly from smoke and storytelling and the smell of grilled meat. UNESCO called it a "Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage." The square has been the city's heart since the Almoravids founded Marrakech in the 11th century. Executions happened here; so did markets, celebrations, and the oral traditions that predate television. The storytellers are fewer now, but the energy remains. The food stalls light up around sunset. Each one is numbered; find your favourite and return. The theatre is in the choosing — vendors calling out, steam rising, the negotiation of a plastic stool. Higher up, the cafe terraces offer distance and perspective. Both views are necessary. Best time: Arrive at 5pm. Watch the transformation. Allow: An evening Combine with: Koutoubia Mosque at sunset, then dinner in the square